Those of you who like papercraft terrain might like this.
World Works Games just released their latest set for their Deadfall wild west line, Tumbleweed Pass. A set of buildings that you can print out and glue together. It’s designed to work well with their other sets, Streets of Blood and Deadman’s Canyon.
Has anyone tried any of their sets?
If you need some great looking buildings for your Blackwater Gulch games, check out the new laser cut wood building kits by Battle Flag!
They have quite a few different kits that they released previously and now they will be producing “official” kits for Blackwater Gulch. Most of the Blackwater Gulch buildings are the same as their other kits, however the BWG kits come with special signs for different people or places in town, such as Dr. Trent Dougall’s office and home, or the Blackwater Palace Hotel. The hotel is a great kit too, it’s HUGE, it has multiple floors, a big balcony and the roof is flat which makes it perfect for ambushes.
Click here to check out their Blackwater Gulch buildings! There are a few to choose from, and they’ll soon be adding a new bordello building and the Gulch Gazette newspaper office to name a few.
We’ll also be showing off these kits on our demo tables at GenCon if you want to see them in the flesh 
Update:
Got my Blackwater Palace model today.. this thing is HUGE. I can see why it costs £100, lots of detail and it’s really like a centerpiece model. Definitely worth it too, IMO.
Probably too big for my 2×2 demo boards, but I’ll be using it for demos anyway Tried messing with the video setting on my digital camera.. nowhere near HD, but here’s a quick video I shot so you can see all the angles and what’s inside. Hope this works:
When I got my first few sample copies of the Bounty Hunter Gang Leader, I couldn’t resist painting one. I took photos along the way, so I thought it would be fun to talk you through how I painted him. I usually strive for a “great table-top quality” paint job, by mostly painting in solid base colors, followed by a wash, and the followed by drybrushing for highlights. You can click the images below for a larger version.
Step 1The first thing I did after I glued him together was to prime the model white. I usually prefer a white base coat, since that will help brighter colors shine through nicely. The primer I used here was just generic Rustoleum white primer that I got from a hardware store. You can also try colored primers if you like, Army Painter makes some really great colored primer.
Step 2First, I painted his coat with Vallejo Game Color Leather Brown. Then, I painted his scarf Blood Red. Next, I mixed the 2 together to paint the scabbard for the knife on his right leg.
Step 3Next, I used Vallejo Game Color Dark Fleshtone on the belts, gloves and boots to give them a darker leather look.
Here’s a shot of him from behind as well.
Step 4Next came the face. I used Vallejo Game Color Elf Flesh for the skin, a little bit of black for the eyepatch, and the hair was done with Citadel Color Codex Gray.
Step 5Now things are starting to shape up. I painted his shirt with pure white, to cover up and spots where I painted “outside the lines”. Then, I used Vallejo Parasite Brown on the shotgun’s stock, Citadel Boltgun Metal on the barrel and the pistol. Last, I used Citadel Asurmen Blue wash on the pants to make them jeans. His base coat is now done!
Step 6Now it’s the fun part. Using Citadel Badab Black wash, I coat the whole entire model except for the face, and for the face I washed that with Citadel Devlan Mud instead. The washes are really great, they fill in the cracks and add in all the little details.
Step 7After the wash was totally dry, I did a quick and light drybrysh of Citadel Bleached Bone along the edges of the coat and shotgun stock to pick out some of the details. Then, I painted the top of the base black so that the white won’t show through when I add the flock.
Step 8To make it look like he’s standing in rocky ground, I use a 50/50 mix of Woodland Scenics Railroad ballast, half fine and half coarse. I get the kind that’s already black, it makes a nice base color for dirt. First, I coat the top of the base with watered down white/PVA glue, then I dunk it in the ballast mix.
Step 8I let the model sit in the ballast for a minute or 2, then I shake off all the excess. After that, I take more watered down white glue and paint it over the ballast. I let this site for several hours until it’s totally dry, and it will seal in the ballast really nice.
Step 9Right about now is when I made the royal decree that all of my miniatures would ship with 30mm bases instead of 25mm. I like the rounded edge that the 30mm bases have, I feel like they make the models look a lot nicer. So, I ripped off the old base (carefully) and then glued the model to a 30mm base instead. Then, I redid the ballast same as above. After the 2nd layer of glue was dry, I drybrushed the ballast with Leather Brown, followed by a lighter drybrush of Bleached Bone to pick out the highlights. Lastly, I painted pure black around the edge to clean up all the splotches I made when I drybrushed the dirt.
Step 10For this last step, I put little dabs of white glue in random places over the dirt, and then added a few pinches of Citadel Grass, and that’s it!
I’d love to see how you’ve painted yours too! Feel free to share some pics here or on the message board!
I just came across some great new terrain from a UK company called Sarissa Precision. Click here to check out their site.
All of the terrain pieces are laser cut and made from wood, they snap together easily and a lot of them are stackable so you can make a lot of different looking buildings. And a lot feature cool interiors. Here’s a great blog review that I found.
This is just the kind of thing I’ve been looking for. I’m going to order up a couple of kits and give my own review when I get them If you want to order any of them, you want to go for the “Old West Heroic” kits.
